The world of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for all. Among the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not mean a quicker vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. When 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I had to scoop one around see what each of the hoopla was with this particular drifter.
AT A GLANCE
WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing
WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast
PART NUMBER: KIT-D4AWD
Just How Much: $115.00
BUILD TYPE: Kit
• AWD for simple learning ?
• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?
• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?
• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?
• Battery positioning before the motor or in the rear diffuser ?
• Aluminum motor mount ?
• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?
• Extremely affordable pric
• Front drive belt slips off of the roller bearing
This drifter has considerably choosing it; well manufactured, a lot of pretty aluminum and rolls in with a very affordable price. Handling is great at the same time after you get used to the kit setup, and it accepts a very number of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for those that love to tinker, and this car should grow along when your skills do.
The D4’s chassis is actually a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. They have cutouts on the bottom for the front and rear diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. A large number of can be used as mounting such things as the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you will find a number of left empty. They are often used to control chassis flex, yet not using the stock top deck; an optional you must be found. The design is comparable to an ordinary touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. All things are easy to access and replaceable with just a couple of turns of some screws.
? Apart from a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. An individual A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to manage camber and roll as the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This technique allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on upper and lower pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and provides for some extreme camber settings.
? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious volume of steering throw they have got. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when near the edges of your chassis as you possibly can. This creates a massive 65° angle, enough to regulate the D4 in including the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend almost all of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to keep up with the ceaseless countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.
Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.
? The D4 utilizes a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. An enormous, 92T 48P spur is attached to the central gear shaft, where front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high above the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the strength towards the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to allow using a number of different wheel and tire combos.
? To present the D4 a little bit of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Wraith parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica on this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, nevertheless i do remember a method I used quite some time back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white on the underside, but painted the fenders black on the outside. After everything was dry, I shot the exterior by using a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I adore the very last result … and yes it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!
Around The TRACK
For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to complete a photo shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and acquire some sideways action?
The steering about the D4 is quite amazing. While I mentioned earlier, the throw is actually a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference from the parts. The CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look just a little funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the appropriate direction. This can be, in part, because of the awesome handling in the D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.
Drifting is not about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I understand that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of the drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to perform that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to alter the angle in the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding in the little shallow? Increase the amount of throttle to have the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a bit and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all dependent on ? nesse, and the Novak system is ideal for just that. I have done must be a little bit creative with all the install of your system because of small space about the chassis, but overall it determined great.
After driving connected touring cars for a while, it will take a little getting used to with the knowledge that an auto losing grip and sliding is the right way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you buy it, it’s beautiful. Going for a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at under two or three inches in the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled uncontrollable thing, along with the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is useful, but if you feel as if you need more of something anything there’s a good amount of things to adjust. I actually enjoyed the car together with the kit setup and it was just a point of a battery pack or two before I was swinging the back round the hairpins, around the carousel and backwards and forwards from the chicane. I never had a chance to strap battery around the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking forward to.
There’s little that can be done to damage a drift car they’re not really going all that fast. I have done, however, offer an trouble with the leading belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the very top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt such as the D4 acquired a little drag brake. I kept from it, attempting to overcome the problem with driving, but soon was required to RPM Team losi parts it into actually take a look. In the build, the belt slips in to a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be backed by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted things like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square around the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, when the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide away from the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with a few 1mm shims to space the bearing out a bit more. Problem solved.